A bushcraft knife is the tool you will reach for more than any other when in the outdoors, so it is worth thinking about before you spend on the first one you come across. The market is crowded with bushcraft knives that look the part but fall short upon use. The difference between a good choice and a bad one usually comes down to a handful of practical questions. Work through them in order and your first knife will serve you for years.

Start With What You Will Actually Do

The best bushcraft knife for you depends on the work you have in mind. If your interest is carving spoons and tools, you want a knife with a fine tip and good control. If you plan to split kindling and process firewood, a stronger blade with a sturdier grind will suit you better. If you want one knife to carry on day walks and camping trips, favour something light and comfortable that you barely notice in your kit.

Most people buy a heavy knife for tasks they never do, then find the weight annoying whilst trekking. A knife that stays with you because it is pleasant to carry will teach you more than a heavy blade left in a drawer.

Fixed Blade or Folding?

For bushcraft, a fixed blade is almost always the better answer. There is nothing to fail, the blade is stronger because it does not fold. It is also far easier to clean after you have been working with wood or food. The trade-off is that a fixed blade is bulkier to carry, which is why it lives in a sheath on your belt rather than in your pocket.

A folding knife has its place, particularly for pocket carry and gentle tasks, but the hinge introduces a weak point and a place for dirt to gather. If you are choosing your first bushcraft knife, start with a fixed blade and add a folding knife later if you find you need one.

Blade Steel: Carbon or Stainless?

Carbon steel takes a very keen edge and sharpens easily in the field which is why so many traditional bushcraft knives use it. The catch is that it will rust if you neglect it, so it needs drying and a light oil after each use.

Stainless steel resists rust with far less fuss and holds a working edge well, which makes it a good choice for wet climates and for anyone who would rather not think about maintenance. Modern stainless steels have closed much of the performance gap, so the assumption that carbon is always sharper no longer means much. Either will serve you well and the question is really whether you want to fuss over your knife or forget about it once you are done with your tasks.

Grind and Blade Shape

The grind is how the blade tapers towards the cutting edge, and it affects everything about how the knife feels to use. A Scandinavian grind, with a flat bevel ground down to a sharp edge, is the classic bushcraft choice. It is strong, easy to sharpen with a stone, and excellent for working with wood.

As for shape, look for a blade with a gently curved cutting edge and a point that sits roughly in line with the handle. That straight spine lets you use your thumb on the back of the blade for controlled carving. Fancy shapes look dramatic but rarely help with genuine camp tasks.

Handle Material and Fit

A bushcraft knife is only as good as its handle. You want a material that stays grippy when wet and does not blister your palm. It is important to also find a knife that doesn’t shrink or crack with the ever-changing seasons. Micarta, a resin and fabric composite, is a popular modern choice because it is tough and comfortable, while traditional hardwoods have a warmth that many people prefer.

Fit matters as much as material. Handle the knife before you buy if you can, because a handle that suits one person's grip could feel wrong in another's. There should be no sharp edges where the handle meets the blade, and your fingers should wrap it without crowding.

Blade Length and UK Knife Law

Most bushcraft knives have a blade between 9cm and 11cm, which is long enough for real work and short enough to control. Anything much longer becomes awkward for carving and harder to manage safely.

In the UK, the law allows you to carry a folding pocketknife with a cutting edge under 7.6cm in public without needing a good reason. A fixed blade is different as you can only carry one in public if you have a genuine reason, such as travelling to or from a course or a campsite. Always check the current guidance and keep your knife securely sheathed and out of sight when it is not in use.

How Much Should You Spend?

You do not have to spend a fortune to get a genuinely good bushcraft knife. At the value end, the Morakniv Companion Heavy Duty MG costs around £28 and is a superb first knife, with a thick carbon steel blade that stands up to hard use. The British Army Knife, at around £55, is a traditional choice recommended for Ray Mears Bushcraft courses and a fine place to start.

If you want a knife to keep for life, the Ray Mears Bushcraft Knife is hand finished in O1 high carbon tool steel with a flat Scandinavian bevel and a linen Micarta handle, and it arrives with a leather belt sheath and a presentation case. For something at the top of the range, the Woodlore Knife Pro is made by Emberleaf Workshops from O1 tool steel at 59 HRC with a Scandinavian grind and a black Micarta handle. Both are buy-once tools that will outlast most of your other kit. Browse the full bushcraft knives collection to compare the ranges side by side.

Sharpening and Care

A sharp knife is a safe knife, because it does what you ask instead of slipping. Learn to sharpen on a stone and touch up the edge little and often rather than waiting until it is blunt. Our guide to how to sharpen a knife at camp covers the technique in detail, and the principles are quick to learn.

Dry your knife after use, keep carbon steel lightly oiled, and store it in its sheath. Never leave a knife wet in a damp pack, and never use the blade as a screwdriver or a pry bar. Treat it well and a good bushcraft knife becomes a lifelong companion rather than a passing purchase.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the best bushcraft knife for a beginner?

A: A fixed blade with a Scandinavian grind and a comfortable handle is the best starting point. The Morakniv Companion Heavy Duty MG is an affordable first knife, while the British Army Knife is a traditional favourite.

Q: Is carbon steel or stainless steel better for a bushcraft knife?

A: Carbon steel takes a keener edge and sharpens easily but needs drying and oiling. Stainless steel resists rust with lack of care. Both work well, so choose based on how much maintenance you want to do.

Q: What blade length should a bushcraft knife be?

A: Most bushcraft knives have a blade between 9cm and 11cm. That is long enough for carving and firewood tasks and short enough to stay controllable.

Q: How do I sharpen a bushcraft knife?

A: Use a sharpening stone and keep a consistent angle against the bevel, working both sides evenly. Touch up the edge little and often rather than waiting until the knife is blunt.

Q: Do I need a sheath for a bushcraft knife?

A: Yes. A fixed blade should always be carried in a secure sheath. The Ray Mears Bushcraft Knife and the Woodlore Knife Pro both come with a leather sheath included.